How to read a cosmetic's INCI list correctly

You've probably tried to read the ingredient list of a cosmetic product. A long list, complex, incomprehensible names. So you do what many others do: you rely on a review, an app, or a marketing promise.

Yet, understanding an INCI list is key to avoiding common mistakes and choosing products genuinely suited to your skin.

Reading an ingredient list isn't enough. You need to understand what it means for your skin.

What is an INCI list?

The INCI (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients) list groups all ingredients present in a cosmetic product, classified in descending order of concentration down to the 1% threshold. In practice, the first three or four ingredients often make up 80% or more of the total composition.

What many people don't know: below 1%, ingredients can be listed in any order. A manufacturer can therefore legally place an appealing active ingredient in a prominent position, even if it is not present at a truly effective concentration. This practice, known in the industry as "fairy dusting," consists of sprinkling a tiny amount of a trendy active ingredient into a standard base, just enough to list it on the label, but far below its demonstrated efficacy threshold.

Common mistakes when analyzing a product

Focusing on the presence of an ingredient rather than its position. An active ingredient in 22nd place out of 30 is almost certainly below 1% and potentially below its efficacy threshold. What matters is where it appears in the list.

Ignoring concentrations. Niacinamide is effective at 4% and above. Vitamin C at 10-20%. Retinol typically at concentrations between 0.1% and 1% (tretinoin, its prescription-strength acid form, is effective at 0.025%). A product may list these active ingredients without dosing them at relevant levels.

Following simplified ratings. Rating applications provide an indication of the safety of certain ingredients, but they do not take into account your skin profile, actual concentrations, or the overall consistency of the formula. A perfect score does not guarantee an effective product for you.

What you should really analyze in a formula

A composition must be analyzed as a whole: the consistency of the active ingredients, the probable position and concentration of each, the compatibility between ingredients, and potential tolerance based on skin type. A good product is not one that avoids certain ingredients. It is one whose formulation lives up to its promises and matches your skin.

The Paradermia approach

At Paradermia, every product is audited before being offered. Our pharmacist analyzes compositions in detail: active ingredient positions, probable concentrations, interactions between ingredients, and relevance to different skin profiles. Products are selected for their actual formulation, not for their reputation or app rating.

Frequently Asked Questions

How do I know if Paradermia products have active ingredients at effective doses?
This is the selection work carried out beforehand by our pharmacist. Every product listed has been audited based on its actual INCI list. You choose a product validated for its formulation, not a product well-rated on a generalist app.

Should certain ingredients be avoided at all costs?
No. It all depends on your skin, the concentration, and the overall formulation. An ingredient is never absolutely good or bad. Its suitability for your profile determines whether it's right for you.