Skin types and phototypes: understanding everything to make the right choices

Dry, oily, combination, sensitive. These categories are familiar to you. But they don't tell the whole story about your skin — far from it. There's a second classification system, used by dermatologists worldwide, that reveals information a simple "skin type" cannot capture.

Understanding these two systems together means truly understanding your skin comprehensively.

Your skin type describes how it behaves. Your phototype describes how it reacts. Together, they determine what it truly needs.

The 4 Skin Types: How to Recognize Them

The classic four-type classification was popularized in the early 20th century. It remains useful as a starting point, but it's not enough to guide precise skincare choices. Oily skin can simultaneously be dehydrated. So-called "normal" skin can be sensitive. Two people with "combination" skin can have radically different needs.

To identify your type, observe your skin in the morning before any treatment: shine on the T-zone (forehead, nose, chin) indicates an oily component, tightness or roughness indicate a dry component, redness or reactivity signal a sensitive component.

The Fitzpatrick Scale: What it Really Measures

In 1975, dermatologist Thomas B. Fitzpatrick developed a classification based not on sebum production, but on the skin's reaction to sun exposure. His scale distinguishes six phototypes according to two criteria: the natural color of unexposed skin, and how it reacts to the sun.

Why Your Phototype Changes Your Choice of Actives

Phototype doesn't just determine the SPF you need. It conditions your skin's tolerance to certain active ingredients, the risk of pigmentary side effects, and your routine's priorities.

For higher phototypes (IV to VI), any skin inflammation triggered by an unsuitable product can leave a persistent mark. Strong keratolytic actives and overly frequent exfoliation are potentially counterproductive — not because the skin is more fragile, but because melanocyte reactivity turns every irritation into a pigmentary risk.

For lighter phototypes (I to III), the main risk is accelerated photoaging and skin cancer. Sun protection is non-negotiable and takes precedence over all other care.

Why Both Classifications Together Give a Complete Picture

Oily skin of phototype IV does not have the same needs as dry skin of phototype IV. Sensitive skin of phototype II is not treated the same way as sensitive skin of phototype V. It is the combination of skin type, phototype, your lifestyle, and your goals that outlines your real skin profile.

The Paradermia Approach

Our pharmacist integrates both skin type and phototype into each protocol. The phototype conditions the choice of SPF, the expected tolerance to exfoliating actives, and the priorities of the routine. This level of personalization is what distinguishes a protocol built by a professional from a generic routine copied online.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I get a routine tailored to my skin type and phototype on Paradermia?
Yes. Our pharmacist takes into account both these parameters, as well as your lifestyle and your goals. The phototype notably influences the choice of SPF, tolerance to active ingredients, and the priorities of your routine.

Can my phototype change with age?
Constitutional phototype is genetically determined and stable. However, skin ages and becomes thinner with age, which can make exposures riskier even for higher phototypes.

How do I know if my skin is dehydrated or dry?
Dry skin structurally and permanently lacks lipids. Dehydrated skin temporarily lacks water and can affect all skin types, including oily skin. If your skin is oily but feels tight after cleansing, it is probably dehydrated, not dry.