Glossary of actives.

Humectant that captures up to 1,000 times its weight in water. Its effectiveness depends on molecular weight: high molecular weight for surface hydration, low molecular weight for deeper action. Apply to slightly damp skin.

One of the most documented humectants in cosmetology. Attracts atmospheric water to the superficial layers of the epidermis. Well tolerated by all skin types, including acne-prone skin.

Humectant and soothing. Converts to pantothenic acid in the skin and supports skin barrier repair. Indicated for irritated skin, post-shaving, or during retinization.

Structural lipids of the skin barrier. Along with fatty acids and cholesterol, they form the "cement" between corneocytes. Their decrease with age or due to aggressive treatments weakens the barrier and increases transepidermal water loss.

AHA with the smallest molecule, thus the deepest penetration. Chemical exfoliant that dissolves the bonds between dead cells. Effective on texture, radiance, and superficial spots. Increases photosensitivity — SPF mandatory.

AHA gentler than glycolic acid. Exfoliating and moisturizing simultaneously thanks to its humectant action. Better tolerated on sensitive skin. Reference active ingredient for improving radiance on high phototypes.

Only BHA used in cosmetics. Liposoluble, penetrates the pore and dissolves sebaceous blockages. Keratolytic, comedolytic and anti-inflammatory. Reference active ingredient for acne-prone skin and dilated pores.

New generation exfoliants with a larger molecule than AHAs. More superficial penetration, superior tolerance. Moisturizing effect in parallel. Suitable for sensitive or reactive skin that does not tolerate classic AHAs.

A form of vitamin A, the most documented anti-aging active ingredient in cosmetics. Stimulates cell renewal, collagen production and regulates melanin. Gradual introduction is mandatory. Contraindicated during pregnancy.

One step closer to retinoic acid than retinol. More powerful at equal concentration, better tolerated than tretinoin. A relevant alternative to progress without a prescription. Contraindicated during pregnancy.

Powerful antioxidant, inhibits melanogenesis and protects collagen from oxidative stress. L-ascorbic acid is the most effective form but the least stable. Derived forms are more stable and better tolerated.

Short chains of amino acids that stimulate collagen and elastin synthesis. Well tolerated, without photosensitization. Suitable for mature or sensitive skin that does not tolerate retinol.

Plant-derived active ingredient (Psoralea corylifolia seeds). A study published in the British Journal of Dermatology (2018) shows comparable efficacy to 0.05% retinol on wrinkles and pigmentation, with better tolerance. Compatible with pregnancy according to available data.

Inhibits melanin transfer to keratinocytes, regulates sebum, strengthens the barrier, and soothes inflammation. The most versatile active ingredient in skincare. Well tolerated by all phototypes, pregnancy-safe.

Inhibits tyrosinase and has antibacterial and anti-inflammatory action. A reference depigmenting active for darker skin tones and during pregnancy. No risk of paradoxical hyperpigmentation.

Inhibits keratinocyte plasminogen activator, reducing melanocyte stimulation. Among the best tolerated over-the-counter depigmenting active ingredients. Particularly well-documented for melasma.

Stable and progressive tyrosinase inhibitor. Better tolerated than beta-arbutin. Suitable for maintenance or for skin that cannot tolerate acids. No risk of paradoxical hyperpigmentation on higher phototypes.

Fungal-derived tyrosinase inhibitor. Effective on hyperpigmentation. Maximum concentration lowered to 0.7% in Europe by the SCCS. Unstable to light, often stabilized as dipalmitate.

Soothing and mild healing agent. Accelerates superficial cell renewal and reduces irritation. Present in many post-shave products and products for sensitive skin. Pregnancy-safe.

Plant extract with documented anti-inflammatory and healing properties. Stimulates collagen synthesis and strengthens the barrier. Well-validated for sensitive and reactive skin. Pregnancy-safe.

Locally regulates sebum production and has a mild anti-inflammatory action. Particularly suitable for oily, acne-prone skin. Often combined with niacinamide for synergistic regulatory action.

DNA fragments extracted from salmon milt. Activates A2A receptors, stimulates fibroblasts and collagen synthesis. Strong evidence in injectables, growing in topical use with nano-encapsulation.

Natural extracellular vesicles that transport proteins and nucleic acids between cells. Promising data in regenerative medicine. In cosmetic topicals, skin penetration and formulation stability remain open questions.

Preparations of inactivated microorganisms or their metabolites. Lactobacillus lysates show documented anti-inflammatory and barrier-repairing effects. More stable in formulation than live probiotics.

Copper peptide naturally present in human plasma, whose concentration decreases with age. Stimulates collagen and elastin synthesis, promotes tissue repair. One of the best-documented anti-aging peptides.